Romania, Bulgaria, North Macedonia and Albania: October 2023
Our Majestic Balkans Tour with Gate 1 began in Bucharest, Romania, the first of the four countries we'd visit. Discovering charming mountaintop towns, exploring monasteries, churches, synagogues and mosques, and learning about the culture and history of these countries has broadened our knowledge and understanding of this part of Europe. We had an excellent tour manager, Tomislav Loncarica, to navigate the details, several local guides to share their experiences, and a great group of 19 tour members along for the journey. We "bookended" the tour with a short stay in New York City at the start of the trip, and a layover in London so we could spend an evening with Jennifer and her family.
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Day 1: We arrived in Bucharest, Romania and had a little time to settle into our hotel before meeting our tour manager, Tomislav, and the other tour members at an orientation meeting, followed by dinner in the hotel.
Day 2: We took a walking tour around the city with a local guide, then we drove along Bucharest's oldest and most fashionable streets, learning about Romania's history, including the turbulent times preceding the overthrow of Communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu.
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We were given a tour of the Palace of Parliament, which is the second largest building in the world. We visited the Senate Chambers and a few of the 1,100 rooms, which include 440 offices, more than 30 ballrooms, four restaurants, three libraries, two underground parking lots, one large concert room and eight underground levels, the deepest housing a nuclear bunker.
After lunch we strolled around Bucharest's Old Town. With its intricate archways, spiraling staircases, and classic columns, Carturesti Carusel (Carousel of Light) has been called one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, so we had to see it for ourselves. It has six levels including a multimedia space in the basement, an art gallery on the first floor, and a bistro at the very top. Built in 1903 by a wealthy family of Greek bankers, it was confiscated by the Communist regime in the 1950s and turned into a general store. As Communism collapsed, the building was abandoned and left to decay, but a restoration project in the 2000s reinforced the structure and the store was reopened in 2015. Across the street
we discovered a cafe highlighting two of our favorite things: coffee and travel (upstairs from the cafe was a travel agency). |
Day 3: Our first stop was Sinaia Monastery. On the grounds are both the Old Church, built in 1695, and featuring walls covered with Byzantine frescoes, and the New Church (at left), built in 1846, which is the oldest active Eastern Orthodox monastery in the world. After lunch we toured Peles Castle, the former summer residence of Romania's first royal family. Commissioned by King Carol I in 1873 and completed 10 years later, each of the castle's 160 rooms are decorated in a different style or theme.
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In the evening before dinner we were privileged to hear Egmund, a guest lecturer, who had taken part in the Romanian Revolution to overthrow Communism in 1989. Here he displays one of the flags waved by protesters. Called the flag with the hole (drapelul cu gaur), with the Communist coat of arms cut out of the middle, the flag became a symbol of the revolution.
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Day 4: We crossed the border into Bulgaria and visited the hill town of Veliko Tarnovo, where houses cling to the cliffs of the River Yantra. We had some free time to wander the artisan shops along the narrow cobblestone streets. In the village of Arbanasi we enjoyed a traditional Bulgarian lunch and then visited the 17th century Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel where we were treated to an amazing choral performance.
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Day 5: We arrived in Plovdiv the evening before and this morning took a walking tour with a local guide. Plovdiv is known as the City of the Seven Hills (except there are now six hills as one of them was quarried to create a shopping mall) and is the second largest city in Bulgaria. Our walk led us through the winding cobblestone streets of the Old Town area with its 19th century churches and beautifully preserved Ottoman-era townhouses.
We visited the Church of the Holy Archangels and viewed the city of Plovdiv from the overlook.
Day 6: The highlight of our walking tour of Sofia was visiting the impressive golden-domed Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, built in the early 20th century in memory of the 200,000 Russian, Ukrainian, Belorussian and Bulgarian soldiers who died in the Russo-Turkish War of 1877.
One of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, it can hold 10,000 people.
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We stopped at the Square of Tolerance where, within sight of one another, there are worship centers of the four main religions: a synagogue, a Catholic Church, an orthodox cathedral and a mosque, the Banya Bash Mosque.
Day 7: High up in the mountains is the site of Rila Monastery, one of Bulgaria's most important cultural and historical landmarks and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in the 10th century but destroyed by fire at the beginning of the 19th century, the complex was rebuilt between 1834 and 1862. The interior of the church was covered in colorful frescoes but no photography was allowed inside. Once a community of 300 monks, now only six live and work there.
Later that day we crossed the border into North Macedonia and arrived in the capital city, Skopje.
Day 8: Today we took a walking tour of both the Old Town and the New Town, visiting several of Skopje's historic sites including the 6th century Byzantine Fortress. It was built on the highest point of the city and offers amazing views of Skopje. The fortress was destroyed in 1962 by an earthquake and later restored to its medieval appearance.
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We visited the 15th century Mustafa Pasha Mosque and the 16th century Church of the Ascension of Jesus.
Day 9: This morning we visited the archeological site of Stobi, an ancient city with a strategic location, situated at the junction of two rivers. The Roman amphitheater was constructed between the 2nd and 3rd century AD from white marble, and was large enough to seat over 7,000 people. The excavations have uncovered the remains of churches, homes and public baths, some with beautifully intricate mosaic floors.
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This area of North Macedonia, the Tikves region, is known for having an ideal climate for wine growing and we passed rolling hills covered with vineyards. In the afternoon we stopped at Stobi Winery for a tour, wine tasting, and a delicious lunch.
We arrived in Ohrid in late afternoon. Ohrid is a lovely city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's situated on Lake Ohrid, one of Europe's oldest and deepest lakes. Two thirds of the lake are in North Macedonia and the other third is part of Albania.
We next visited St. Naum Monastery and the Church of St. Sofia. St. Naum's Church was fully destroyed between the 10th and 13th centuries and today’s church was built on the original foundations in the 16th century. The Church of St. Sofia was constructed in the 10th century and enlarged during the 11th century. It was converted into a mosque during the Ottoman Period, then restored to the Christian community during the 19th century.
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Day 11: Crossing the border into Albania, we visited Elbasan, entering through the southern gate of the 15th century Elbasan Castle with its two lion fountains. We stopped to see the King Mosque, built by Sultan Bayazid II, and considered the oldest mosque in Albania. We had lunch on the terrace of the Real Scampis Hotel, within the walls of the castle.
Day 12: Today we explored the village of Kruje, nestled in the mountains, and the Skanderbeg Museum, dedicated to the life and legacy of the military leader who defended Kruje from the Ottomans 500 years ago. Located inside the ruins of the old castle of Kruje, the museum was opened in 1982. The building was designed to resemble the fortress of a Medieval Albanian castle.
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Kruje's Old Bazaar was constructed in the 17th century and is known as one of the oldest bazaars in Albania. Vendors sell everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts, and there might just have been a small rug calling our name.
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